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Day 8: Holland Lake to Ovando

After a great nights rest and figuring out a bear storage hack, we got a relatively early start to what the guide book said would be a tough day. After a few miles we began the long climb up to the infamous northeast flank of Richmond Peak. About halfway up the climb we passed a couple of riders and shortly thereafter came around a switchback, where we saw a huge grizzly in the middle of the road about 50-60 yards away. We shouted at the bear to let it know we were there, and it just stopped and starred at us for a few seconds, then meandered off into the woods. We thought it best to wait for the other two riders and proceed with the strength of numbers, since that was an option. We rode with the couple, who turned out to be from the UK and were on an even more epic adventure than ours; Banff to Patagonia, then a tour through Australia ending at Ayers Rock, followed by another tour in India through the Himalayas! We rode with them for a handful of miles then went ahead on the last steep 5.5 mile segment of the climb. After a great lunch spot at the top, we continued to the northeast flank of Richmond Peak. This four mile section was supposed to be challenging to negotiate due to downed trees, poor road conditions, wash outs and other obstacles that would hinder progress. However, it turned out to be lots of fun. We were fortunate and late enough in the season not to have to deal with any snow, plus there we no major obstacles. The scenery was incredibly beautiful and the rough double track, soon turned into a fun downhill single track. We eventually ended back on dirt roads for the rest of the decent. In the afternoon after many more miles of ups and downs and some more ups we were feeling tired, hot and pretty exhausted. We passed a couple of glorious looking small lakes and decided to go swimming. A joke was made about how awesome a rope swing would be, and by the awesomeness of the universes, the spot we had decide to go to from across the lake had a rope swing. It looked a bit sketchy, but ended up being such great fun! The water was cold but refreshing and soothing on sore joints and muscles. We relaxed for a little then got back to riding, feeling much better. After that it was mainly flat or slightly downhill to Ovando, our destination for the night. Once we figured out were to camp in town, we set off to the local pub, Trixie’s. We ordered burgers and beer, which were both delicious. But the real highlight of the meal were the fries. They were amazing. So good we ordered a second helping before heading back to camp.
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Day 6 and 7 Red Meadow Lake to Holland Lake

It was a struggle to get out of the tent in the morning on day 6. The overnight temperatures had dropped below freezing and inside the tent, our Enlightened Equipment sleeping quilts were keeping us nice and toasty. When we finally rustled out of the tent, the view was spectacular. We must have looked cold because our camp neighbors quickly offered to share their morning fire with us. We shared stories and they sent us on our way with soda and a bag of freshly picked huckleberries. After a small climb to start the ride, we began a long decent into Whitefish, where we stopped in town at Glacier Cyclery for a bike check and had minor work done. After a delicious burger and a couple errands, the shop gave us a call and we were on our way. The rest of the day was through relatively flat, mostly paved roads that zig-zagged through farmlands. We put in an extra effort knowing we had a house to stay in that night, thanks to a couple we had earlier contacted through Warm Showers. Chuck and Betty, cycling enthusiasts and our hosts, were awesome and went above and beyond to make our stay incredible. Not only were there showers, but a choice of places to sleep, including two different bedrooms, an RV on their driveway, or in a teepee! And to top it off they made us a huge dinner and breakfast. Chuck, also was kind enough to offer us a ride to the grocery store, saving us a long backtracking detour. Their kindness and generosity was amazing. After the trip to the store, and getting a great view of Seeley Lake from Chuck’s former work site with the Forest Service, we set out for a long day. It started with a pretty solid climb and then a rapid decent. This would continue through out the day with constant ups and downs through drainages. But it was nice to get back in the forest after the previous days ride through open farmland. We made it to Holland Lake just as the sun was setting, and the warm glow on the mountains created a stunning sight. After setting up camp and talking with a couple out on a bird watching adventure, we began cooking dinner, and soon our other camp neighbors offered us a couple beers and sweet potatoes. It was an amazing night and this was a wonderful treat. Even after many long days in the saddle and the exhaustion from the first week, it was easy to forget about all the hard parts and just be happy, and humbled by all the kindness and beauty we had experience along trail so far.
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Day 5: Eureka to Red Meadow Lake

After the tough ride the previous day, we decided to take a lazy morning before heading out. We walked around Eureka and ate a giant breakfast at Cafe Jax. After consuming way too much food and coffee, we slowly sauntered back to our camp to pack up and set off. We began the ride with a nice 25 mile climb up Whitefish Divide and then descended through a valley strewn with fallen trees crushed by avalanche. Eventually, we made it to the last climb of the day, up to Red Meadow Lake. The ride got steep, slow, and just when we thought it couldn’t get any worse, it began to rain. We finally found our campsite for the night and set about making camp. The rain finally stopped and our moods lifted as we ate dinner, drank whiskey, and looked up at the amazing stars as the clouds cleared in the night sky.
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Day 4: Pollock Creek to Eureka, MT

Today was intense. We left camp at 9:30am and arrived in Eureka after 10pm. We did about 90 miles and 7k elevation. We started with a big pass called Cabin Pass that was 12 miles long. After the climb we gradually dropped down into the wigwam valley, the clouds cleared and we stopped to eat lunch and shed our layers. We continued on, slowly gaining elevation, until we reached the turn off to the infamous hike-a-bike. After some rugged singletrack, we saw the wall ahead of us. A nearly vertical wall of mud, rocks, and roots .25 miles long. We slowly made our way up, pushing our bikes inch by inch. We finally made it to the top, expending way too much time and energy. We took a breather and then continued the climb up Galton Pass a 7 mile climb that gained close to 2000 feet. After cresting the summit, it was a gnarly descent that dropped 3500ft in less than 9 miles. We made our way to the border and camped the night in Eureka, MT.

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The roads we ride

On the divide we have faced every imaginable type of road surface. From the joy of pavement and gravel, all the way down to horrific ‘lava sand’ and roads that turn into a rushing streams. Here are a few roads that we’ve ridden.
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Day 3: Elkford to Pollock Creek

We started off slow, grabbed a bite to eat at the cafe across the street and both ate amazing bacon egg and cheese sandwiches! After getting our fill, we set off. The day started with a 2 mile climb, it was on pavement so it wasn’t that bad. At mile 13, our route was diverted. A big washout took out a decent sized section of the road. We saw a cowboy and he explained to us that we would have to ford a river in order to get back on route. We listened to him and after a 45 minute detour through the same river twice, we were back on track. The next 20 miles flew by. We had a nice tailwind and were cruising at 21 mph. We stopped at Sparwood to resupply and then off again to Flathead Pass. It was a 6 mile climb on golf ball sized gravel and as we got to the top, rain started coming down. The ride down was quite intense as the road turned to a to river. After all the intensity we finally arrived to camp. A little damp but our spirits still intact. A little light on pictures today because of all the rain!!
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Day 2: MT Engadine lodge to Elkford

We woke to the sound of rain, never a pleasant sound, and solemnly packed our bikes. We headed back up to the lodge to seek warmth and coffee. As we were about to leave, a worker decided to feed us leftover eggs, which were absolutely delicious. Finally, after our fill, we set off. Nearly right away we saw a big black wolf run across the gravel road! It was huge. We continued on the day to Elkford through a misty fog and dense evergreens. Every so often, the land was scarred from logging and coal mining. It was a long day, 72 miles with plenty of elevation. Along the ride we also saw more wildlife,two moose and one bear! As we finally rode into Elkford, we were nearly depleted. We found a store, bought whisky, and camped out at the campground across the street.
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Day 1 Banff, Canada to Mt Engadine Lodge

We arrived in Banff early Tuesday afternoon, after a 1.5 hour drive from Calgary. We began to assemble our bikes and grab our last minute supplies. But as we have begun to find out, everything on the divide takes much longer than expected. We were not ready to leave until half past seven, so we decided to find the local campground and hit the hay and take off early morning.
The next morning we packed our bikes, grabbed a few more forgotten items, and set off. We meandered through town and down the Spray River. Surrounded by mountains, the river a deep glacial blue, we were both awestruck. Soon a light rain began to fall and the terrain got exceedingly challenging. The gravel path became strewn with huge rocks, a bridge was under construction and we had to ford a freezing river. As we continued, we saw a ray of sun, and before we knew it we were greeted by an amazing rainbow. We were still very far behind schedule and with no campground nearby, we luckily found a lodge that had a yurt to stay dry in for the night.
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The Bikes

Preparing for the GDMBR we decided that the Surly Ogre would be our bike of choice. The Ogre is a no-nonsense steel 29’er off-road do-anything bike. It has eyelets for days, its tough, and is built to take a beating. After choosing the frame we went ahead a got it built up with a smattering of Shimano XT/SLX components. XT hydraulic disc brakes, Alfine dynamo to power our light and electronics, and Velocity Blunt 35 rims to tie it all together. Our saddle choice was easy, we decided on the new and comfy Brooks Cambium. As our ride at times, will be punishing, we needed all the spring we could get, and the Cambium was the obvious choice. Below is the complete build specs for each bike.
Matt’s Ride
Frame: Surly Ogre Medium
Fork: Surly Ogre
Headset: Cane Creek 40
Stem: Thomson Elite X4
Handlebar: Salsa Bend
Shifter: Shimano SLX
Grips: Ergon GC1
Seatpost: Thomson Elite
Saddle: Brooks Cambium
Seat Clamp: Blue Salsa
Front Hub: Shimano Alfine DH-S501 32h
Rear hub: Shimano XT 32h
Rims: Blue Velocity Blunt 35
Tires: Maxxis Ardent 2.25
Cranks: Shimano SLX 36/28
Pedals: Shimano spd
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Cassette: Shimano 11-36
Chain: Shimano HG54
Brakes & Levers: Shimano XT hydraulic
Light: Supernova E3 TripleStorage
Frame Bag: Surly branded Revelate
Seat Bag: Revelate Pika
Handlebar Bag: Swift Industries Paloma
Salsa Anything RackBrett’s Bike
Frame: Surly Ogre Large
Fork: Surly Ogre
Headset: Cane Creek 40
Stem: Generic
Handlebar: Salsa Bend
Shifter: Shimano SLX
Grips: Giant Grips
Seatpost: Civia
Saddle: Brooks Cambium
Seat Clamp: Green Salsa
Front Hub: Shimano Alfine DH-S501 32h
Rear hub: Shimano XT 32h
Rims: Blue Velocity Blunt 35
Tires: Maxxis Ardent 2.25
Cranks: Shimano SLX 36/28
Pedals: Shimano spd
Bottom Bracket: Shimano
Cassette: Shimano 11-36
Chain: Shimano HG54
Brakes & Levers: Shimano XT hydraulic
Light: busch and mullerStorage
Frame Bag: Surly branded Revelate
Seat Bag: Revelate Pika
Handlebar Bag: Swift Industries Paloma
Trunk Bag: Axiom Robson LX 14
Salsa Anything Rack -
The Great Divide

We are setting off on an adventure of epic proportions. 2,800 miles. 90% unpaved. 200,000 feet of elevation gain, 2 provinces, 5 states. Banff, Canada to Antelope Wells, NM. It’s called the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
Our vision and ultimate goal is the creation of a high quality photobook that documents our story as we meet the challenges this trip presents. According to adventurecycling.org, the GDMBR is rich in history. We will encounter ghost towns, deserted mines, and wagon routes. The route will also take us within the proximity of several national parks such as Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton. Our objective is to document this route in two parts. First, we will photograph the impact that development has on nature. The scars of mining, deforestation, abandoned buildings, as well as what nature has done to reclaim that which was once its own.
The second part focuses on our personal struggle as we ride the difficult 2,800 miles. The route is remote, long, and arduous and this is what will challenge us the most. It will be us against the elements, Man vs. Nature. Our personal triumphs and struggles, combined with spectacular photography of our surroundings, will be documented and crafted into a beautiful photo essay that gives an insight into this remote and rugged trail.
















































































