Day 18: Colter Bay to Nowhere, MT

We woke up early and hung around with some camp neighbors, ensuring we didn’t get an early start on the day. We had bought some delicious cinnamon rolls the day before and enjoyed those for breakfast as we chatted and packed up. We were on pavement for a while after leaving the campground. The views of the Tetons were stunning. We continued climbing, switching between paved and gravel roads, until we topped out over the Togwotee Pass at around 9,500 ft. We stopped for lunch just after the summit at a glorious lake. We debated the route ahead, as the map gave warning that the next section would be unridable after rain, and took a gamble as it appeared that the storm had just passed through. It was the right call. Shortly into the section, the sky cleared. We stopped to change out of our rain gear and took in the views before cruising down a rad descent. After turning back on the highway, we pulled into the Lava Mountain Lodge to refill our waters. We ended up getting a beer too, and before we knew it, we befriended a regular named “Cowboy Jim”. He was quite the character, entertaining us with great stories and hilarious conversation. He bought us a couple more rounds and we even got some free food. With all this, we decided not pedal the three extra miles to the campground and got a small “Grizzly” cabin for $25 instead. We made mac & cheese, drank some whiskey and slept comfortably in the warm cabin. “If you’re ever in trouble, just give’er some gas” – Cowboy Jim’s late friend Charlie.













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